As
I walk past an Italian Supermarket I wonder where I am. Yesterday in
Carrefour I heard Robbie Williams singing angels. At the moment I can
hear "New York City".
I
spent the morning in an internet cafe. Surrounded by skyscraper flats
and hotels it could be anywhere in the world. The noise of the
traffic is deafening and fatiguing. A barefooted youth passes me
carrying a surf board. I follow him. Is he going to the beach? No
he's not so I change direction hoping to reach the beach and a more
peaceful space. I glimpse the sea and quicken my steps. I wait 5 mins
to cross the road. When I reach the beach the noise of the traffic
beats the sound of the crashing waves. I wish I was a surfer at least
I could escape the thundering traffic.
Despite
not being able to speak the language except for the compulsory hello,
please, thank you and how much (very important) I manage to order
chicken and chips. It took half an hour to cook but it was delicious.
I normally try to eat vegetarian but being worn out from the
incessant noise I fancied comfort food. Also this country does not
understand vegetarianism and prides itself in having restaurants
which serve practically only meat.
Whilst
eating my meal I watch a barefooted old man pass amidst the heavy
traffic. He is pushing a handcart laden with rubbish. In the opposite
direction a horse and cart driven by two young men whom I suspect
would be in school in many other parts of the world pass by. The cart
is also full of rubbish. A third man stands by my table and looks at
me with pleading eyes. He leans forward with open palms requesting
food off my plate.
Later I succeed in
buying an international telephone card from a lottery kiosk. It took
some time but with the aid of two or three assistants who were
desperate to help me I succeded and I paid knowing that it probably
wouldn't work. It didn't. A young man had pointed to a phone which I
tried but after several attempts I gave up.
I
am now sitting in a supermarket drinking hot Amarillo, delicious. I
look outside. It is raining again. It has rained for two weeks-since
I arrived. I was told to bring warm weather clothes, beach clothes.
I have spent one afternoon on the beach. The waves are too big to
risk swimming and the under current grazes and bruises ones body as
it is draged over the coarse sand.
I
have bought lots of traditional rubbish but never expected that I
would have to buy an umbrella.
When
I return to the apartment we will watch the daily diet of soaps on TV
interspersed with adverts which are given more time than the actual
programmes.
Yesterday
when I was looking at underwear and nighties a young man asked if he
could help me. He spoke English but I really didn't want a young man
helping me to choose knickers.
The
women here are beautiful and obviously frequent the many beauty
salons which are as prolific as pubs in England. I noticed the
fashions subtly accommodate the women's stomachs. There doesn't seem
to be the same desire to look like a stick insect that I have noticed
in other countries. The young men spend their days and evenings
either in the sea surfing or on the beach playing football no matter
what the weather. Oh and the footballers are mostly barefooted.
Last
Saturday I went to a wedding. It was the wedding of a couple who had
been living together and had a child. So there was a wedding
reception and a fourth birthday party for the daughter. It was held
on the terrace bar of a football club. By hanging over the balcony I
could see two local teams training - all bare-footed. I think I could
see one pair of boots.
There
was the biggest display of balloons I have ever seen and sweets.
Smarties, marshmallows, chocolate ladybirds and wrapped toffees
heaped and piled in patterns. There were heaps of BBQ-ed meat too
with a serve yourself salad table and a metre square cake.
The
young people set up a sound system - I say sound system because what
I heard barely resembled music, not music as I know it. The sound
became louder and louder.
A
smartly dressed but stern looking woman was placed opposite me
because she spoke English. She said, "How are you?" then
turned to my friend and rattled away in their own language.
Jocara
said, "Why don't you talk now that you have someone who speaks
English?"
I
thought why doesn't she speak to me. Eventually she looked down her
nose at me and said, "What would you like to say?" So I
politely asked her where she had learned English and had she been to
England. She said that she had travelled all over Europe, her father
had worked for the German government. She spent 3 months every year
there. I asked her again how she had learned English.
She
replied," It is very easy for me to learn. I read newspapers and
children's comics, it is very easy for me."
I
ask her if she has been to England.
"No
the English are very cold."
Why
do people find it so easy to insult me. I am never knowingly been
rude to people I meet here.
"Have
you been to France? " I asked.
"I
would love to go to Paris, it's my dream to go to Paris."
"Why
do you want to go to Paris?" I asked.
"
The perfume. The perfume", she said
I
burst out laughing. (Was that rude?)
"Are
you interested in Art?"
"Not
at all".
How
can I communicate with this woman.
The
music gets increasingly louder, the wind blows across the terrace. I
have no warm clothes. I am freezing. I try to think of a plausible
excuse to leave. Just as I am composing a sentence to speak to
Jocara to say I am leaving, they send in the clowns. Really. A young
couple, and I mean young. Like policemen are getting younger are
clowns too? They appear from the toilets.
Continuation
of the wedding reception and birthday party.
The
woman begins her patter to gather the children. A game of musical
chairs is organised. The usual sequence of event, losers
weepers-winners all smiles. The younger children don't understand the
concept of elimination and continue to run around. After the
children's game the adults are persuaded to play. This I thought was
a good strategy because there was little else to do other than eat
and drink. I filmed the whole game which I managed to do from a
position near the BBQ which was considerably warmer than my draughty
corner.
I
have eyed the table of sweets frequently since I was hungry on
arrival. I noticed that a couple of older women, grannies like me I
presumed, are surreptitiously sauntering past the table and taking
handfuls of smarties. I decide to do the same. I was amazed from the
start that the children hardly looked at them and I didn't see one
child take a sweet. It was us grannies ----. Then the organisers
started to bag them up. The sweets not the grannies. They took the
balloons down too and distributed them amongst the children. The
girls danced with the balloons shaped like flowers and the boys
fenced and fought with the ones shaped like swords. We could be
anywhere in the world. Do you have any ideas?