Brazil Part 9

 J must have said that she needed a smoke as they always spoke in Portuguese and rarely translated anything for me. We pulled up on the hard shoulder. J leapt out of the car waltzed round and lit up. She is mad I thought. Two minutes later a police car pulled up behind us. She had to show all her documents. Passport, driving licence and Identity card.  J had double for everything i.e. in French and Portuguese.

The policeman used his phone to check everything and eventually we were allowed to drive on. It was not easy getting back onto a four lane motorway but j managed it. We eventually reached our destination at about 10.30 am. 

The tiny apartment was full when we arrived. I was ordered to put my case/bags in a corner and introduced to everyone. I was polite but decided that spending a full day sitting like a prune was not for me. I said that I had to go out to find money and a phone card and a present all of which was true.

In the lift I met a woman called Maria de Loudres . She spoke some English and we hit it off immediately. She invited me to go for a beer which I did. She offered to take me out. I explained that I had a few things to do and asked if we could meet in the evening. She suggested 8.00pm which I thought was perfect. It would get me out of a four hour meal with little to do but eat and smile.

I found a cash point an internet and some money. I bought a video for Louana's christening which after all was the reason I was in Brazil with J. I had a cappuccino and something to eat. Then I remembered the teleferique.   I bought a ticket and up I went. On the way up I saw hang gliders who were jumping of the top of the hill. As I was climbing (in a chair of course ) It was absolutely lovely just to sit back and watch the beach fall away and we rose higher than the sky-scrapers. All the time the giant colourful birds  floated over our heads. 

When I reached the top I walked to a small filed where the hang gliders were taking off. I sat on the observation seats. A man who was with his daughter spoke to me in English. He was very proud of his English/American which was excellent. We compared video cameras. He told that he had been a deep sea diver. He said being deep in the ocean was as near as one could get to flying.

I sat for ages watching the real birds diving in and out among the  among these giant colourful peacocks.

I filmed the journey down on the 'train'. I could hear a samba band in the distance. When I alighted I found the band further along the beach so I bought a drink and prepared a video. I filmed them for about 10 minutes. They responded to my filming with waves and cheers. There equipment was old and tatty and broken but their smiles and enthusiasm was anything but. I toyed with the idea of giving them 50R$ but decided that that was a drop in the ocean. It wouldn't make a scrap of difference. I wondered ,not for the first time, who was rich and who was poor.

Was it the friend with all her paintings in dark rooms away from the sun entertaining stiff embarrassed guests who were afraid to make crumbs or use the wrong cutlery and afraid to speak the unacceptable. Or was it these lads, young men playing their hearts out and laughing and joking and enjoying the expansive beach and sky. The surfers and footballers all out in the elements moving their bodies enjoying every sense in total freedom.

Even the vendors who continually patrol the beaches and cafes  with their earrings, peanuts, sunglasses and blankets etc. Even the old man who is collecting beer cans and selling them for a pittance. They all have the advantage of being outside. They have the freedom of not having to conform to a dress code. They can wash in the sea and spend most of their days out of doors and probably frequently nights too. While in the apartment  we are afraid to open the window because of the mosquitoes and afraid to use the electric fan. 

I know it  How do you know if you are happy if you have never been sad. It is all a matter of perspective and it is all comparative. How do you know whether you are rich or poor unless you have experienced both? I saw a pet shop when I went to Carrefour yesterday. It had glass boxes stacked up and filled with puppies in the shop window. Were they happy? They chewed the newspaper bedding, played and then went to sleep. I felt sick and sad. I no longer know what is right and what is wrong. 

I went back to the apartment as late as possible so as not to have to suffer the stifling atmosphere. I picked up that they were taking it in turns to have a shower. I was careful not to interrupt the routine and waited until everyone had showered. I rinsed my face and changed my shoes then I casually asked J if she knew what time they would be back. "No idea," she said. " I won't be able to get in if I am back before you." She shrugged even though she had said earlier that they could leave the key at the reception.  " OK , "I said," I 'll wait in reception if I am back first."

"Restes tranquilles," she said. Then I asked her if she had told the others that I wasn't  joining them this evening. I could tell by her reaction that she hadn't. Fortunately her sister-in-law overheard and asked what the problem was. She spoke French so I was able to explain.  She said," No problem. Go and have a good time."

I rang Maria and she came immediately. She was dressed to the nines. She said that I looked nice but I explained that I only had two sets of clothes with me.